Tuesday, 22 May 2018

High Country 1



8/5/2018.  Tuesday.  R & R were disturbed only once by a very heavy shower of rain but slept well.  At 6:45am, they climbed out of bed to have breakfast and chat with J before he went off on a job which D had already set out for. J left about 8:00am so it really was time for R & R to get serious about showering, sorting out stuff and packing down.  They took a break at 9:00am and had a cup with T before finishing up.  They agonised over the decision of whether or not to take or leave the bikes and rack.  In reality they had only used them three times since leaving home.  They decided to leave them in the hope that J could take them over to WA when he next goes back with the big truck.  Just before leaving at 11:00am, Jayco rang to say they had the smoked plastic protector for the fridge in stock so RL agreed to pick it up on the way out.  By 11:30am, R & R were on their way, driving east from Melbourne on Princes Hwy heading for Moe.  RL drove through Narre Warren, Berwick, Officer, and Packenham which are places that you would miss if you took the M1.  The land opened up into farming country shortly before Princes Hwy joined M1.  In this part of the journey the countryside was undulating to hilly but not mountainous.  They passed Gumbuya World which looked like a massive adventure playground and bypassed Warragul bound for information at Yarragon.  Yarragon is a lovely little township with lots of cafes and chocolate and lolly shops.  R & R ate lunch, and armed with information from a very helpful lady, set out for Walhalla, via Moe, just before 2:00pm.  Moe is a very big town only a few kilometres east of Yarragon so it was not long before RL drove north out of Moe 45kms towards Walhalla.  There, the road was a far cry from the big flat highways.  It was only one lane going each way, hilly and very winding with warnings to watch out for log trucks, motor cyclists and wombats. For a while the road passed through the Moondarra State Forest where there were tall trees are on both sides of the road before it opened up a little for some cattle farming. It passed through the settlement of Erica which was very pretty and grows spuds. Mt Baw Baw rises to the west and looks huge.  At Rawson, RL turned east towards Walhalla. The last 15kms or more was very winding and quite steep with hairpin bends suggesting 25-30kms/hr.  Massive trees and ferns line the road which had sections where the rock face has been netted to help prevent falling rocks.  It was fortunate that only one car had been following behind RL the whole time and that had been early on.  At Thomson Station the road goes over a bridge with water and a rail line under it.  At 3:15pm (an hour after leaving Moe) R & R arrived at Walhalla.  It really is a place that looks stuck in a time warp.  Gold was discovered here by Edward “Ned” Stringer in 1862 and in the years following 13 tonnes of gold was removed from the Long Tunnel Extended Gold Mine.  After the gold rush, the town all but died with only a few original buildings remaining. Others have been rebuilt in the style. At its height it boasted 4000 residents. Today there are only 20 with some of the people who work in town in the tourist industry driving in from nearby towns.  At North Gardens Campground, R & R dropped the camper and backed the Ute out of the way, had a coffee and set out for a walk to try and take some of it in.  They also wanted to check if any point up or down had Optus reception.  When they got back, they tested the Telstra dongle. RA was not too concerned as they had connected with most everyone the day before. When they got back at 5:00pm, they set up the camper with the flies, just in case, which took a total of 35 minutes.  They thoroughly enjoyed dinner before reading and writing diary.  By 8:00pm it was really getting chilly so it looked like they were in for a cooooool night … they would not even know how cool because they couldn’t get it on the phone.





9/5/2018. Wednesday.  It was a very cold night because the pillow felt damp where RA had blown air out but not so cold as to make the car windscreen icy.  We did however bring out the dressing gowns, mittens and beanies as they got up at 7:30am for coffee and breakfast and waited for the sun to begin warming everything. It shone first high up in the tress on the western side of the valley and then moved downward on them.  The toilet block was first in the camping area to benefit so after breakfast R & R stood there for a few minutes before heading off for a walk at 9:30am.  The first 150m was the only, but very, steep part, of the track.  The rest was then almost level about half way up the side of the valley with parts of it needing little bridges or rails for the tourist’s safety.  About half way along Walhalla has its mine site museum and tours.  All along the views down into the valley are spectacular showing the trees and ferns or the buildings in the valley below where Stringer Creek flows gently at this time of year.  By 11:00am they were back for coffee and a banana with the intention of an early lunch to be ready on time for the 1:00pm Train Tour.  The rail had fallen into disrepair after the rush ended (early in the 1900s) but enthusiasts have lovingly restored it and volunteers run it 3 times a day, every day of the year except Christmas.  Tickets (2 adult concession @$15 each) are like those issued when R & R were children!  The steam train puffs smoke as it clatters and rambles over trestle bridges, alongside Stringer Creek one way for about 15 minutes with a break at Thomson Station where tourists take a photo, toilet or shop break before returning.  On the way out everyone was madly taking photographs but on the way back they were just taking in all the scenery. R & R were back shortly after 2:10pm for a cup and chatted for a while with a lady who was traveling with two dogs before they went for another walk.  That time it was up the hill to the Cricket Ground.  A 45 minute, 2km round trip walk up and down the face of a hill to play cricket!  The walk up was steep and they stopped a few times to catch their breath as it zigzagged its way back and forth, while the walk down was easy. While they were on the oval (it still has a concrete pitch) RL sent a SPOT message so that everyone would know they were safe.  By 4:30pm they were back at the camper with plenty of time to read and write before preparing dinner. You could feel the cool moving in as the day ended.  Walhalla really is a sensory heaven.  You see: a kaleidoscope of shapes, forms, patterns, in every shade of green, and in autumn, yellows, gold and reds in the flora, dappled in light and shadow; the dichotomy of old and new buildings, lifestyle and technology.  You smell: various plants, earthy smoke on the train and campfires. You hear: water trickling over rocks, bird calls, wind whispering in the trees, trees creaking, voices travelling, train whistles and hoots.  You feel: breeze as the leaves fall from the trees and swirl, warm in the sunshine, cool in the shadow, damp where there is no light.  You sense: height and depth, everywhere. A special place … a special day for them!









10/5/2018.  Thursday.  It rained heavily at one point during the night and showered on and off at other times.  R & R were both restless for a while before getting out at 6:30am.  Because they had been warned that there would be snow at 800m and heavy wild weather for a couple of days, they set about breakfast and packing down as quickly as possible while it was clear.  Their fingers were near frozen as they packed the wet flies and put the cold metal bits away. By 8:40am, RL was driving out of Walhalla and back up and round all those hairpin bends.  RA was not even going to worry about it.  RL said, “It really is quite spectacular!” to which RA added, “… sparkling with the sun peeping through where it can!”  The sunlight strobed as the car passed through the trees.  Thomson’s Bridge, the point to which they came with the train the day before, was about 5kms.  In the next 5kms they saw at least a dozen cars driving down into Walhalla, an articulated truck with a digger on it and another truck but luckily there was nothing behind them wanting to pass.  R & R also saw the most unusual running bird, dark in colour, with a long thin feathery tail which, only later, did they realise was a lyrebird.  When they got to the turn off they stopped for a cup and to put the computer on charge on the Thumper.  Not sure about the Thumper?  It is an auxiliary self-contained power pack which is kept in the back of the Ute.  By 9:15am, R & R were heading 35kms for Traralgon via Tyers with the trees being so close overhead that the Navigator had difficulty getting a GPS signal. There was some farming land in between logging activity.  Coming down, they passed Matthew’s Quarry and stopped at a lookout for some photos of the three power stations in the La Trobe Valley below.  They had the CB on Channel 40 and the expressions “Cobber” and “Oooo Rooo” came up in between some swearing.  A generation ago no one would have sworn on the air!  Traralgon is a big centre with an information centre and they stopped there about 10:00am.  R & R walked round checking out the op shops and went to Chemist Warehouse for a couple of things.  After coffee and banana they headed for Glenmaggie via Hayfield.  It was lovely flat country with cattle and dairy farming and some irrigation, and the hilly country to the north and east.  Lake Glenmaggie was at its lowest in terms of annual cycles, with very little water and little activity.  On the shore line there was a boat clubhouse which would indicate that at other times it would be a hive of activity.  Although the day was dry, it was cloudy and the wind was icy cold.  R & R had late lunch, rang H, their daughter, and walked around taking some photos. About 1:30pm, they headed for Rosedale 27kms away. Rosedale is a community that is surrounded by dairies and a logging industry.  There is also a big fertiliser company and a new industry creating high tensile steel products.  It had been suggested to them that Willow Park, 2kms east of Rosedale near the La Trobe River bridge under Princes Hwy, would be a good free rest area for a couple of days if the weather was going to be bad.  As it was sunny, they set up the camper and were having coffee and ringing the local dentist by 3:00pm.  Yes!  They would have a space to fit RA in tomorrow.  Shortly after that R & R went down town just to check things out.  They spotted an op shop where RA found a long woollen jumper.  Then they drove past the dentist to make sure they could find it easily the next day and searched for the Neighbour Centre where they understood they could get a free shower and exchange books.  Just before 5:00pm they were back at the camper.  RA helped her husband sort out the photos on the computer and they proofed a draft for the blog before dinner.  After, RA paid the license on the Camry and then wrote some diary while RL read.  RA was so grateful … she was not fond of dentists but so glad that her tooth would be fixed.




11/5/2018.  Friday.  There was no rain overnight to R & R’s knowledge but it was cold even though officially it was only about 5-6*C.  Being just metres from the highway, it was extremely noisy but that was not the reason they had trouble sleeping. They were frozen especially their feet and they were both glad of morning.  One truckie about 6:00am thought everyone else should all be awake and hooted long and loud as he drove nearby.  R & R had breakfast and tidied up and were right on time to be downtown Rosedale at 9:00am to the Neighbourhood House for a free shower and book exchange.  They also bought a couple of tickets in the Mother’s Day raffle and a jar of pickles made as a fund raiser. At 10:00am they were back at the op shop where the day before RA had seen a hot water bottle!  If it was still there, they would buy it. Fortunately, it was and they bought a piece of cloth to wrap it in.  RA felt quite calm as she walked into the Rosedale Family Dentist.  She was just so happy that they could fit her in.  They were very warm and welcoming and the dentist was accustomed to working with children.  Because RA had lost the filling from the front tooth that had a root canal treatment, it did not need an injection which was great.  She, the dentist, and her mother, a doctor, had together set up the clinic about 18 months before as they were locals and could see a need for it.  RA was out in just under the hour and it had begun to rain with grey and damp setting in.  R & R popped into the other op shop, where they chatted with a lady who was lamenting the drought conditions in the East Gippsland area, before heading for Sale 24kms east just before noon. The countryside was veiled in a grey mist and there was road works happening almost half the distance so it was not easy to see much.  The Thomson River (Walhalla) comes to the sea at Sale and in earlier times a canal was made to move cargo from the rail past the lakes to the sea. It was only about 20 minutes before R & R were parked outside the courthouse in Sale having a coffee and banana and chatting with K, RL’s sister.  R & R walked over the road to the Port Sale library/information centre/café and art gallery.  The highlight in the gallery was the delicately intricate cloth and thread works of Annemieke Mein.  They feature Australian flora and fauna, in particular birds and moths.  R & R enjoyed looking through the raindrops on the library window at the boats on the canal of Flooding Creek which would have been even greater a delight on a sunny day.  Back at the court house at 1:30pm, they had late lunch in the car, before RL moved the car nearer the Plaza and they headed to the main street called Raymond St.  It features a clock tower which tolls a bell on the hour.  If you worked there you could be sure to know what hour of the day it was.  R & R popped in and out of six different op shops and RL found his wife a fabulous Gondwana jacket which fitted all the criteria and was near new for $10. After a look around the Plaza they did a quick food shop and headed for the two lakes down town.  At 4:20, R & R were parked between Lake Guthridge and Lake Guyatt drinking coffee and being entertained by a great number of water birds as they strutted and played antics in the autumn rains.  Twenty minutes later, they were heading back to Willow Park at Rosedale where they sat in the car appreciating the warm for a few more minutes before unpacking the groceries and shifting into the camper.  RL read while RA sorted food and looked at the maps.  RL joined her with the maps and they ended up being a little late with sweet and sour for dinner.  Their daughter, S, rang to tell them about her exciting day and somehow RA didn’t quite get to finishing the diary.  At least it was a warmer evening … and now they were armed with a hot water bottle.







12/5/2018. Saturday.  It was really not that cold but so snug and warm in bed that R & R were reluctant to get out . They got out at 7:00am and although RA would have liked to finish the diary, RL was anxious to get going.  So by 8:30am, they started packing down and were on our way, though they stopped downtown Rosedale to chat to S, their son, for a while.  RL drove 15kms on Princes Hwy to Morwell and by 10:10am it was a lovely 10*C and sunny.  Morwell is a big centre with a huge regional medical and hospital precinct, Energy Brix Aust. Federation Training, a lovely Federation Rose Garden and a clock tower.  It chimed on the half hour as R & R were coming out of the op shop.  About 10:40am, they headed for Warragul 50kms west where the M1 runs parallel to the rail line and agricultural activity includes cattle, dairy, potatoes, tomatoes and greenhouses. The Navigator had the Ute on the M1 bypassing Warragul and bound for Neerim 27kms north where a sign warned not to be carrying potato past that point. The country side became quite hilly and windy with warnings for motorcyclists of whom they saw many throughout the day. Walnuts are grown at Neerim and R & R saw many horses and two camels.  It became very like the country side near Manjimup and Pemberton with tall trees and ferns and RL commented “How nice!” because he was able to see downwards.  After turning west at Yarra Junction, R & R saw a seedling and tree venture called Nationwide Tree and some vines.  Shortly, they entered the La Trobe State Forest which was very winding but not too steep (as in up and down) as for the most part it ran in the valley between the mountains.  Here is the beginning of the western end of the Great Dividing Range with MT Baw Baw Alpine Village to the east.  It became increasingly steep and the tree ferns were at least twice as high as the Ute.  Powelltown is a timber town with a massive hardwoods mill and has the Powelly Pub.  Here the road runs alongside the Yarra River with farming activity including cattle and market gardens. Apple orchards are huge and the trees, under net, are full in red fruit.  The picking season appears to be in full swing with trucks on hand to move produce. Just a little further north the Gladysville Primary School has a big red apple at its front gate.  There R & R saw another milling yard, more market gardening and vineyards.  At Yarra Junction, they stopped at 12:30pm to pop into an op shop where RA bought a neoprene pencil case for 50cents, just perfect for storing a couple of tent pegs and the stabiliser ropes.   R & R sat facing the north with the mountains before them as they ate lunch.  The tops of the mountains could not be seen for the dense grey cloud covering them.  Shortly after 1:00pm, RL drove west, then north east to Healesville via Woori Yallock a total of 25kms.  It was lovely countryside with flower growing, vineyards and the Yarra Valley Quarries. At Healesville RL stopped at 2:00pm as it was about time to make a plan for the next 24 hours.  It was agreed to head to Alexandra on the Maroondah Hwy 65kms to the north east.  RA checked out petrol prices and times for Mass.  On the rise out of Healesville, there is a lookout over the Maroondah Water Reserve which is part of the supply for Melbourne.  The Yarra Ranges National Park begins shortly afterwards and it was here that the roads became very winding and tight and the trees massive.  The elevation of the ranges is 500m above sea level with Denby Knob just to the west of the road rising to 750 m. Below Denby Knob stands the Black Spur Roadhouse where RL saw the sign for diesel at 137.9c/lt (Narbethong) so he slipped in to refuel.  Shortly after that the country side opened up again and levelled off to between 200-300 m. Buxton lies at the base of Mt Sugarloaf and Jawbone Peak and looked lovely with the sun breaking through the trees mid-afternoon.  Just around the corner The Cathedral rises to 814 m and at its base a farm called “Hope Spring”.  Others in that range rise as high as 1250 m. At Taggerty, which crosses over the Acheron River, RL was breath tested by a booze bus.  The young officer joked about RA taking notes as she had her pen and paper in hand.  Shortly after, the Ute was descending to Alexandra 2km down the Acheron Cutting.  It was spectacular.   At 3:30pm RL was driving over the Gouldburn River into Alexandra. Alexandra, it is noted on the sign is the birthplace of Dame Pattie Menzies (nee Leckie).  R & R parked the Ute and walked to the information centre and into an open op shop on the way. Alexandra has a Catholic Church and 5kms out a free camping site, so they set the Navigator to Brookes Cutting Reserve, on the edge of the Gouldburn River and set up.  Shortly after 5:00pm, were having coffee and chocolate (Fruit & Nut, a Christmas present from their friend, B) before getting out the ipad and the computer.  RL helped with dinner and they both went back to their chosen tech.  S, their daughter, rang and wished RA Happy Mother’s Day … just in case she didn’t ring a third day in a row.




13/5/2018. Sunday. Mother’s Day.  R & R woke at 6:55am having slept quite soundly and warm. They had already decided to stay a second night so they did not have to hurry to breakfast and set the camper down before 9:00am Mass.  They were in good time.  After Mass, RL immediately set out for Eildon 24kms to the east.  It was a lovely drive on Goulburn Valley Hwy, just as the name indicates, in the valley running alongside the Goulburn River.  The road was winding, undulating but not steep.  There farming includes cattle and dairy and at Thornton which is half way in between there are fishing industries like fly and trout fishing.  At Eildon, RL headed for Jerusalem Creek which was about 5kms out, very winding and hilly into the Lake Eildon National Park.  It was about 3kms generally uphill and then 2kms generally downhill. The flora is not like Alpine flora with the trees being much smaller and there are no tree ferns, only bracken.  At about 10:30am, they were having coffee and looking at the remaining speed and house boats moored on the lake side. The day parking area required putting the Ute into 4WD as it was quite steep and rutted.  On the way back to Eildon township, R & R went up Mt Pinniger to Foggs Lookout (503m).  They were amazed by the sheer length of the power lines which hung suspended from one side of the lake on the opposite hill to the hill they were standing on. Somewhere in the depths below, 300m or more, the wires had red balls to indicate power line overhead to the boats in the water.  The span of the wires could only be a guess, maybe 3-4kms between the towers!  And the lake itself … huge!  Four times the size of Sydney Harbour at its current level and the largest in the southern hemisphere!  RA made RL park the car and walk the loop as it was unsurfaced and they did not know its condition.  It must have been a couple of kilometres with an icy wind but the feet had warmed up by the time they got back to the Ute.  RL drove over the spillway, stopped for a photo break and continued on over the dam wall.  It really was as safe as … but RA just didn’t like it.  From the top, the AGL power station can be seen and next to it a massive boat and marine repairer.  There were at least a couple in Eildon and also storage for boats.  R & R returned to Alexandra about 12:20pm via the Back Thornton Road along which there are many camping, caravan and B & B styles of accommodation. Obviously, holidaying here with boating, camping and fishing is big business in season. Fellow campers had told R & R that Melbournians flocked this way for boating and fishing activities at it was so close (90kms away) and so reliable. By 12:45pm they were at the Laundromat in Alexandra, sitting with the wash in the machine, eating lunch and chatting with G, RL’s brother.  R & R returned to the camper and hung the washing before heading out again at 2:00pm to Snobbs Creek Falls.  It was about 2/3 of the way back to Eildon.  They had passed it on their way to the lake, but it was only when a lady outside the Laundromat suggest they see it, that they gave it a second thought.  The falls were in the Rubicon State Forest and the road was about 6kms, half of which was unsealed so the Hum engaged 4X4 again.  As R & R got out of the Ute, they could hear the roar of the Cascades and Falls.  The viewing platform for the falls hangs out over the rocks and water and when they turned to face the falls they were only a metre or so from white, rapidly falling water.  It was an amazing sight and well worth returning for.  R & R were back in Alexandra about 3:30pm and took a photo of the Princess Alexandra (wife of Edward V11) statue and became aware that Alexandra, like many other towns, was founded on gold at Red Gate Diggings, UT Creek.  Back at the camper RA fetched the washing in while RL chatted with a couple of guys before they went for a walk down to the river.  There were wombat holes, wombat claw markings in the soft mud at the river’s edge and wombat poo everywhere but not a wombat to be seen.  RA consoled herself with the thought that at least she was sharing the very space that they moved on.  At 5:00pm, they were back.  RL read and RA answered a questionnaire on her migration story that S, her daughter, had sent as part of an assignment.  Having emailed it back, R & R were free to start cooking dinner.  After dinner, they chatted with S about the assignment, read and did diary.  RA thought it had been a lovely day full of adventure … and with greetings from all her children.

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