Wet Tropics 2

12/8/2018 Sunday R & R woke shortly before 7:00am and RA wrote some of the diary she had not written, before even having breakfast.  R & R were pleasantly surprised by a couple of yellow birds with a red patch around their eyes.  Later they found out that these birds are called Fig Bird.  After breakfast R & R packed down and went with anticipation to the fruit vendor stall on the southern side of Innisfail.  It was a pleasant sunny morning though quite humid.  They were disappointed that, for some reason, the vendor, with whom they had spoken the day before, had not arrived as promised. Fortunately, there was a banana stall over the road with bananas for $1.50/kg.  They also spotted a monument which commemorates Scheu, a pioneer who blazed the first dray track circa. 1883 from Cardwell to Geraldton, which reminded them they had read, that originally Innisfail had been named Geraldton until … a boat had turned up in Geraldton WA.  So, Geraldton QLD was renamed Innisfail.  Rather than following the Bruce Highway south to Tully, RL opted to take a loop drive called the Cane Cutters Way, a road passing through several towns and settlements with a total distance of 52kms.  It was a lovely drive in that it was a road less travelled so RL could take it all in.  For the most part the hills were in the distance and everywhere sugar cane and bananas could be seen growing.  Railway lines were everywhere to support the sugar cane industry. There was one section which was steep and winding up and down round the edge of a hill before opening out again.  At Wangan, R & R saw a big building called Northern Iron and Brass Foundry.  The highlight at South Johnstone was the sugar mill with no less than 2 enormous chimneys and a half dozen smaller ones.  The air was sweet and the mill, noisy. Mena Creek and its falls feature as the backdrop for Paronella Park.  It was such a magical spot and R & R were grateful for the opportunity to cross the suspension bridge and glimpse some of the castle for free as they had neither the time nor inclination to go on an extended visit of the grounds. Jose Paronella, a Spanish man bought the land besides the falls in 1929 and built a castle, doing extensive work on the gardens with thousands of tropical plants.  It had been opened to the public since 1935.  It truly looked as if it had been designed for a fairy tale!  R & R were lucky enough to spot a cane cutter’s cottage in good condition and to stop and look.  The cottage, no longer in use, had a shared kitchen area at one end and several individual rooms for workers.  R & R stopped again in the township of Silkwood which had the smallest National Bank in Australia and a history rich in timber, butter, sausages and spaghetti.  Silkwood was only a kilometre to Bruce Highway where RL turned south for a short distance to the town of El Arish.  Its history is profoundly linked with returned servicemen after WWI and, in particular, with the Light Horsemen.  Somewhere along the way R & R noticed that several of the houses had their washing lines on their upper balconies.  It was a warm 27*C and the humidity had dropped somewhat when R & R arrived in Tully 16kms further south just after noon.  Tully has a golden gumboot tower, 7.9m tall, which was the amount of rainfall received in Tully in the year of 1950.  The view from the top, looking down on the Tully sugar mill and its monuments was a must do.  In the park RL noticed many unusual bird nests of a peculiar type.  The tree called Rain Tree was brought to the tropics from South America for shade by the early settlers. The nests are returned to every year by the metallic starling which migrates to and from New Guinea.  Although the starling appears black, its feathers actually shine iridescent with green, blue and purple.  R & R had read that the locals like to swim at Alligators Nest about 10 minutes from town.  Alligators Nest was a day use area in the Tully National Park and had a safe swimming area.  Since it was already 1:00pm, R & R had lunch in the Ute, breathed in the sweet smelling air and walked to take photos before having the most enjoyable dip.  The feeling of calm and of being revitalized must be a result of the pure fresh running water massaging the body in the idyllic setting of creek with rocks and rainforest trees.  R & R spotted the red-browed finches, watched a tiny turtle swimming and RL saw a brilliant blue Ulysses butterfly.  It was just delightful.  An hour later, RL headed back to Tully and then a further 22kms south on Bruce Highway to Bilyanna rest area where R & R set up the camper.  That section of the road was mostly low lying and swampy with evidence that the road had been built up to protect it from flooding.  Both sides of the road were framed with metal posts and rope.  After a cup of coffee, R & R had a rest as it was not too late, after which they studied maps for a while.  RL rang their daughter, H, briefly and RA sent a text to Z and B in Mongolia. R & R went for a walk around the camping area and along the railway line and chatted with fellow campers.  RA wrote some diary and K, RL’s sister, rang and chatted before dinner.  RL helped his wife cook dinner and then he read while she finished her diary. 

13/8/2018 Monday R & R were out of bed a little earlier than usual at 6:30am.  They had breakfast and headed for Murray Falls at 7:30am.  It was already a pleasant 14*C with a promise of 26*C and the humidity was only 56%.  The 20kms drive to Murray Falls was through sugar growing country with a few bananas and some cattle where it was a little steeper up the hills.  In between crossing the Murray River and the entrance to the Girramay National Park was the Jumbun Community which was an indigenous community with its own hall and medical centre.  The park featured Mt Wyruna at 946m.  R & R had coffee before walking around and taking pictures of the falls.  It was too early and still too cool for a swim.  At 9:00am, R & R headed back to the camper at Bilyanna rest area but they had seen a fruit stall at the Murray River Upper State School and were just about to purchase as the receptionist brought a fresh lettuce for sale.  They chatted to her about the stall and the children.  Their little school had a half/half Indigenous/caucasian ratio with a total just under 40 students and the stall was a lunchtime project which was supported by the community.  RL bought a fruit called a pomello which would be interesting as they had never tried it before.  After picking up the camper RL was driving to Cardwell, 20kms south when he saw a dead snake.  Significantly, they had been on the road about 6 months and it was only the second snake they had seen, and both were dead.  For the most part the road ran between the Edmund Kennedy National Park towards the coast and the Cardwell State Forest to the inland and much of it was swampy or wetland.    Cardwell sits along the sea with its main businesses and residential area in a narrow strip either side of Bruce Highway.  RL stopped when he saw an op shop and then again further down the main street to look out over the sea toward Hitchinbrook Island. By 11:15am, R & R were on their way south again briefly before turning off to the day use area at Five Mile Creek.  It was a dry warm spot, more woodland than forested, and the swimming hole had still water so R & R did not stay long, other than having a cup of coffee and their banana.  The area was, indeed, more dryland forest and it appeared that some of it was being revegetated with pine. The railway line ran close to the road and the hills, some up to 1000m, were not far from the road.  Girrigun National Park sat between the coast and the road.  Shortly before Ingham the road rose steeply at about 10% for one and a half kilometres with the Cardwell Range Lookout (also called the Hitchinbook Island Lookout) at the top (that was time for R & R to get out with the cameras again) and then descended in much the same fashion into lower flat cane growing again.  That section of the highway over the range was officially opened in 1987 and RA was impressed by the care that had been taken to make as little impact on the range as possible.  It had overpasses and underpasses for native animals and 1000s of plants were transplanted in the process. It was shortly after noon when R & R arrived in Ingham which is a big inland centre servicing the cane sugar industry and sits on the Herbert River.  It had several lights, all the big brand shops and fast food outlets and car and machinery sales and service as well as being a tourist and creative centre.  R & R popped into a couple of op shops and a secondhand shop before having lunch in the shade at the TYTO information centre. TYTO takes its name from the Eastern Grass Owl (tyto capensis) which is an endangered species. The information centre is surrounded on 1.1km sq. and is home to 240 species of birds which is about 27% of all Australian bird species.  Compare that to Kakadu which is 19,804km sq. with 280 species of bird about 32%.  So, although R & R had an agenda for the afternoon, they promised themselves that it would be on their list for the next day. It was about 2:30pm, when RL headed north east to Halifax via Macknade.  They enquired at the hotel about free camping and felt a little disappointed when they were allowed to camp and they would not be able to have fish and chips for dinner because the kitchen did not cook on Mondays.  Anyway, they left the camper set up there and headed a further 6kms north east to Lucinda, Patterson Parade, to be specific.  When they arrived at Lucinda about 3:30pm with the help of the Navigator, R & R enquired of a lady, who was crossing the street with her dog, if she knew F.  “Oh. Yes.” she said. “She lives in the little cottage behind the trees, just there.”  Shortly after, R & R were gonging at her front door.  F did not answer, as she was down the side getting ready to go out in her car.  Quite surprised to see R & R, she apologized that she was actually on her way out to pick up a friend who would be staying for a couple of nights. But on second thoughts, realizing that she was early enough, she invited R & R in briefly to plan to catch up for lunch the next day.  To clarify. F is a fellow camper who R & R met in Ivanhoe way back.  She was grateful of RL’s map and encouragement about her next stage of travel and, had extended an invitation to come and visit her at Lucinda, if R & R ever came that way.  Lunch arranged, at her place the following day, she left R & R to drive down to the beach, not for a swim, but to see the sugar handling facility and its 6km offshore jetty, the longest jetty in the southern hemisphere.  One of the locals told R & R that it was known a crocodile lived under the jetty!  On the foreshore there were monuments to sugar cane growers, information about the six different types of stingers and an impressive fig tree with curtains of aerial roots.  RL then made a quick trip to Dungeness which is a fishing spot at the mouth of the Herbert River only a couple of kilometres away.  By 5:00pm, R & R were back at the camper behind the Halifax Hotel ready for a quiet evening.  Before and after dinner, they read and wrote a while, as well as chatting with their daughter, S.  R & R were looking forward to the next day … with all those plans!

14/8/2018 Tuesday R & R were awake a little early, possibly with anticipation, at 6:30am to 16*C and 72% humidity.  Just after 8:00am, they were away to Ingham to walk around the reclaimed wetland site.  Armed with map, monocular and camera they set off looking for birds and enjoying the different varieties of plants.  Despite hearing lots of bird calls, it was difficult to work out which birds they were seeing, so many of them fliting and darting so quickly that they were hard to identify. Lapwing, willy wag tail, several different types of duck, a large white egret, a pied cormorant, white browed robin, a curlew and a bittern were seen as well as a baby turtle and some agile wallabies. RL filled the tank with water in the TYTO Car park and they had a cup of coffee before walking downtown to see the original Pub With No Beer, Lees Hotel.  In the summer of 1943, a fellow called Dan Sheahan was unable to buy a beer at the Day Dawn Hotel (since renamed the Lees Hotel) due to war time rationing.  He penned the poem “Pub Without Beer” and it was published in 1944 in the North Queensland register.  It was later, in 1956, revamped by Gordon Parsons, who had been given it as anonymous at the Taylors Arms Hotel in NSW.   The following year it was made a hit by Slim Dusty.  R & R also took in some of the public art like the historical mosaic in Mercer Lane and the Iconography mosaic on Lannercost St.  R & R were due to be at F’s house for lunch so about 11:00am they headed for Lucinda via Cordelia, the Victoria Sugar Mill, and Halifax.  This route took them close to a cemetery that they had been told was a must see.  It was only an extra 3kms in and then out.  When RL turned the corner and parked the Ute under the shade, RA was speechless.  The jaw had dropped in sheer amazement.  The marble and tile mausoleums built there by the Italian community need to be seen to be believed!  Many, many little ornate buildings, like chapels, filled with flowers, urns and statues, adorned with swirls, scrolls and crosses mark the final resting place of mainly Italian Catholic pioneers.  It was so fascinating that R & R were nearly late for lunch at F.  RL parked the Ute under the shade over the road near a children’s playground.  They were warmly greeted and introduced to two of F’s friends, who also just happened to be visiting at the same time.  RA popped some washing into F’s machine and everyone chatted happily until the appointed time to fetch the fish and chips.  R & R offered to go. RL turned the Ute from the firm grassed ground at the edge of the fence over the vacant block.  The Ute and camper just sunk!  RL tried all the usual tricks to no avail.  There was nothing to be done for it except to head inside and tell F she would have to fetch lunch while R & R thought about what to do.  Not only did F fetch lunch but she rang a friend to ask for assistance.  After much ado, B managed to drag RL, the Ute and camper, inch by inch and RL was able to join the ladies to finish lunch.  It was lovely to feel so at home with such a bunch of complete strangers.  R & R felt that someone like F would always draw lovely people together.  Eventually it was time to take leave, so R & R fetched the washing off the line and said good bye.  The Ute really struggled and shuddered to get going in first gear and the higher gear changes were really heavy.  It felt like the bogging episode had been the last straw for a clutch that had showed signs of fatigue on a couple of earlier occasions.  R & R had thought to free camp south of Ingham but it was clear that something should be done.  A quick Google search indicated that Ingham had a Holden dealer and gave its address, which RA popped into the Navigator and, in moments, RL was parked conveniently outside the Holden dealership.  It was already after 4:30pm but the guy there reckoned he could have a part up from Townsville the next day and would oblige by fitting the job in.  R & R, desperate to find somewhere to sleep overnight that was close, searched for caravan parks in Ingham.  Fortunately, there was one, only 2km down the road with vacancies and pull through bays.  The Ute would have struggled seriously, if it had been necessary to negotiate into a tight space.  Needless to say, RA was so grateful!  After setting up the camper, R & R had a cup and thought about dinner.  S, their daughter rang, then R & R showered before bed. It had been such a day … but RA was grateful to so many … and hopeful that all would be well.

15/8/2018 Wednesday  R & R were awake at 6:30am to a pleasant 16*C despite 86% humidity so all boded well for a day on their feet downtown Ingham while the Ute got its new clutch.  They had breakfast, showers and prepared lunch.  RL rang his brother-in-law, G, to wish him a happy birthday and then read while RA tried to catch up on a little diary.  She can get quite stressed if she gets behind.  It’s hard enough to remember what one did in a day let alone the day before.  Just before 9:00am R & R got ready to shudder their way back to the Holden dealership to leave the Ute.  Shortly before 10:00am, they left the Ute and walked from the southern end of the CBD to the northern end, popping into all the shops of interest and re-reading the panels about the mosaics in Mercer Lane.  RA was particularly interested to read the content about the Kanakas, islanders who were enlisted (some enforced) to work in the early days of the sugar industry. R & R stopped off at the Woolworths complex and had a cup and banana, from their backpacks, before wandering to the botanical gardens.  Part of the gardens was a shed which was only bricked, just over half its height, with fencing above it.  It had large open gates and housed a tropical hothouse for want of a better description.  It had ornaments and water courses and was quite delightful.  Nearby, there were covered picnic tables where R & R made themselves comfortable, rang their daughter, H, and had lunch.  Only when a bus load of students on an excursion arrived for their lunch did R & R make a move.  R & R went back to the TYTO centre and looked at all of the displays, pressed all the buttons on the interactive panels and watched the clips about conservation being undertaken by farmers and indigenous groups.  It housed an impressive collection of bird nests.  A highlight on the board walk over the wetlands was seeing many Kreffts Short Necked Turtles in the lilies below.  R & R climbed the tower and saw the sugar trail which was a comprehensive collection of machinery used in the sugar industry each with a description on a panel.  The gallery was open and R & R could not fail to be impressed with the work of the three artists on display: Louise Plint – Stitched Stories, Nina Dawson - Nature’s Colours (photos and plant dyed clothes and garments, and Mariangela Bison – hats and fascinators.  At 4:00pm, R & R walked back to the dealership to enquire about the Ute and the secretary assured them that it was on target to be finished by 5:00pm.  R & R walked some more and had a coffee in the shade on a park bench.  Just before 5:00pm, R & R were paying up for the work completed.  Despite the cost, $1500, RL was so happy with the ease of gear change. “This is great!”  R & R went back to the camper. As luck would have it, they chatted with the couple next door until dark by which time it was really late.  R & R prepared dinner quickly and spoke briefly with S as she was on her way out to dinner.  RA never did get to complete her overdue diary.  And the buy of the day after all that shopping … RL bought himself a soft toy for $2 … a blue healer pup wearing Driza-Bone!

16/8/2018 Thursday R & R woke at 6:30am again and although humidity was 92% and the sky was cloudy it pleasant at 15*C.  They breakfasted and showered and tidied up so that they could leave the camper temporarily, do a food shop downtown, return to the camper and pack it down to be away before exit time of 10:00am.  All went well and RL pulled out of the caravan park well before 10:00am.  They stopped just outside and had a cup of coffee before starting on their day’s journey.  RL headed south on Bruce Highway toward Townsville.  There was hardly a chance to get up speed for long as there were several sections of road works mostly at bridges.  As before, the road was flat with the hills at a distance and sugar cane growing on every available piece of land.  Where it was more low-lying and swampy, there were cattle.  The road veered around the end of the Paluma Range and National Park toward the coastline where it joined the train line again.  RL passed the Frosty Mango Icecreamery and orchard and at 10:30am, 55kms south of Ingham, turned off the Bruce Highway into Bushy Parker Park free camp site with a pretty little creek for swimming.  Having parked and taken a walk around, R & R agreed that they would be quite capable of filling the rest of the day at a place like that which also had reception.  After much deliberation, they chose a spot which they hoped would provide shade throughout the day and set up.  At 11:30am, R & R were having coffee.  RL read while RA sorted out the shopping and entered all the recent expenses into the ipad numbers chart.  RL put the Slim usb in the player for the afternoon and they had a total binge on its easy-going rhythms.  R & R had a cat nap before reading, studying maps and writing some diary.  About 4:00pm, R & R ventured down to the creek and had a swim before getting their camera and wandering around the park and along the creek.  When they returned to the camper, RL put 40 litres (2 jerry cans) in the tank, retied the trestles on the roof rack with the new ties that he had bought the day before and crushed the mixed nuts for their breakfast while RA checked out Mass times nearby for the coming weekend and wrote some more diary.  Fortunately, they had moved only a few kilometres and not really done much so there was not a great deal to enter.  After dinner they chatted with their son, J, who was thrilled with the work placements he had secured for 2019.  Then they both read a little before retiring.  It had been a great day … moving and doing so little!