Tuesday, 10 April 2018

Fleurieu Peninsula





26/3/2018.  Monday. Well! It was the wildest wind ever.  The Hum secured the camper roof to the roo bar and roof rack of the Ute.  Eventually, R & R slept when the wind calmed a little and they slept heavily only getting out of bed at 7:30am.  It was a cool grey morning as they put the 18 lt jerry can in before leaving at 9:35am. RL had checked out Adelaide fuel watch and found one with diesel at 125.5 c/l which was on the way through. The closer R & R got to Adelaide, the more intensive farming became including vegetable hothouses, irrigation, olives, fruit trees and vines. After refueling at Pooraka, RL drove along Portrush Rd which is an older, more established and grand part of the city just east of its centre. Portrush Rd is always a surprise when it comes to its end facing the wall of one of the hills, sweeping you round and up onto the South Eastern Hwy (Princess Hwy).  Fortunately, RL was behind a slow moving truck (about 40kms/hr) so there was no need to stress; just sit back and enjoy the ride. It is most picturesque with the road cut out of, through, over and alongside the Adelaide Hills. The edges of the road are lined with big eucalypts and pine.  Curiously, there is a sign indicating that koalas might be seen here.  Heaven forbid, for the poor koala who attempts crossing in this traffic.  At one point the road goes through the Heysen Tunnel about 500m so the Navigator told R & R he had lost GPS signal and displayed a different view than they had ever seen before. R & R arrived at Home of 12 Volt, Mount Barker about 47kms south of Adelaide at 11:30am and it was agreed that putting it on charge for a week would probably indicate that it needed repacking, when repacking would only take a couple of hours.  To fill in time, they walked to an op shop they had seen just round the corner, had lunch and a coffee and ventured back down town for some groceries and change.  Essential when you need $20 here and there for cash only camping fees and $1 x ? for showers or $2 x ? for Laundromats!  Just before 3:00pm, RA set the Navigator for Strathalbyn which is about 30kms south.  This road runs through the Mount Lofty Ranges and is steep and windy with tight bends flanked with railings and below them lovely big trees.  As pretty as it is, you need to focus on the road, not the scenery.  Here there are cattle farms with dams containing water.  In Strathalbyn, R & R stopped to look at some of the lovely buildings and parks, pop into the information centre and had a coffee.  Their daughter, S, rang and they chatted while the Navigator directed RL the next 40kms through Currency Creek, Goolwa and Middleton and to the Port Elliot show grounds where, earlier in the day, RA had pre booked a campsite. By 6:00pm they were having coffee and looking at the maps to create vague plans for the next couple of days.  The evening was cool and still … cool enough for them to need more clothing … and outside the sky was clear and only crickets and some night birds could be heard




27/3/2018. Tuesday.  Having looked at the maps it was decided to leave the camper set up at Port Elliot and spent the day driving without it.  And … what a sound choice!  R & R left about 9:00am and arrived back about 5:00pm having spent the day roller coasting up and down hills like driving up and down Greenmount Hill only steeper, tighter, longer; over and over and once again. Sometimes there were guard rails on both sides of the road, at other times signs warning of cross winds; and the wind, so windy all day, everywhere. So much easier done without being weighed down by the camper!  The Hum took it in his stride but there were times when his wife could barely look.  Having said that though, the scenery throughout the entire Fleurieu Peninsula is spectacular!  Hills so steep with acres of farming (either cattle, dairy or sheep), vineyards, olive groves or forest plantations up to the top and down into the valleys with large native trees and water in creeks and dams, not to mention the beaches and ports on the coasts where agricultural activity meets the ocean. R & R saw the first sign of autumnal colour on deciduous trees like the liquid amber. It was an amazing day’s drive.  From Port Elliot they drove north-west through the centre of the peninsula towards Adelaide and stopped off for a while in McLaren Vale.  While others may find wine tasting the highlight here, RA was so aware of the smell of wine in the valley that she believes people there must be happy just on the smell of it.  For RA buying some chocolates at the Menz FruChocs (apparently this is a well-known brand here) chocolate shop was a first, so now they would have some chocolate for Easter!  From there, RL headed north to admire the Onkaparinga River at its mouth, on to Christies Beach and then back down the western coast popping into some of the beaches on the way down. Port Noarlunga with its reef, jetty and totems provided R & R with a great entertainment as there were classes of students snorkeling from the beach to the reef under the watchful eyes of instructors and two rescue boats.  Here also, there is a monument to Captain Collett Barker after whom Mount Barker in WA is named. At Maslin Beach they sat for lunch for about half an hour. Further down the coastal road, just north of Myponga,  RL turned back to stop for photos at a Buddhist temple of a massive statue which looks out over the sea,  Here there was also a magnificent building in the valley which was probably an olive oil production plant with much the same grandeur as a winery. The view coming down the hill into Yankalilla was breathtaking.  It is a very big service hub for the area and for Normanville a smaller seaside village just nearby.  Here R & R stopped for a coffee and popped into an op shop where RL bought a CD.  Just over 50kms south they were thrilled to arrive at Jervis Bay at the same time (2:30pm) as a ferry returning from Kangaroo Island.  It was impressive watching the catamaran, Spirit of Kangaroo Island, come in and do a U turn in the shelter of the moll before backing up and dropping its gang way for the vehicles including a truck full of sheep to drive off.  RL had to back track 11kms to reach the Range Rd for the drive to Victor Harbor.  This is a much better view of the windmills on the wind farm than on the way in.  Range Rd is generally a much flatter road. Forestry SA features here with massive plantations of pine and lesser of blue gums. Here R & R saw many zanthorea, bee hives and poplars.  Once again the drive down into Victor Harbor is spectacular.  The Mount Lofty Rangers certainly are lofty; high, aloof and majestic. At 4:30pm they wandered a little round the harbor foreshore area, filled with excitement for tomorrow’s planned excursions there. Shortly after 5:00pm they were back at Port Elliot (only 6kms east) with the camper just as it had been left.  They read and wrote before enjoying dinner.  It had been a really awesome day … and they had another planned!




28/3/2018.  Wednesday.  R & R were awake and getting out of bed at 6:30 even though it was still dark outside, with daylight saving here due to end soon.  RL drove to Victor Harbor and he parked on the Flinders Parade just before 9:00am to walk over the jetty to Granite Island. It is a unique jetty in that it accommodates the use of motor vehicles over the tram tracks that are used by Clydesdale drawn trams – originating from the days when these gentle giants drew wagons for moving bags of wheat and bales of wool.  The walk around the island takes about an hour going right round and over the top.  The island was just stunning, featuring artistic installations from artists all over the world, some more appealing than others, but RA couldn’t help feeling that nature had done its own wonderful job of sculpturing the varied formations of rock, the shapes and types of plants and trees, not to mention various birds, some of which she had never seen. Penguins can be seen on Granite Island but it was not the right time of day.  R & R were fortunate to see the horse drawn tram on their return. About 10:30am, they were back at the car having a coffee before going on a binge of op shops, no less than five in Victor Harbor. It is a big town with lots of old buildings, many in excellent condition being put to uses other than originally intended. Shortly after 11:30am, RL drove back through Middleton and Port Elliot heading for Goolwa where the Hum followed instinct and picked Beach Rd to get to the sea.  It has a real surfing beach though the sand is not white.  A 4WD track can take those adventurous enough over the dune and along the beach for miles with the warning that knowing tides time is essential.  Above this track is a stairway to a look out, so high it almost takes your breath away to see so much coast line in one direction and Lake Alexandrina in the other.  They ate lunch and were on their way again before 2:00pm.   At Currency Creek, RA asked her husband to stop and let her take photos of an old building which had vines growing over it, giving it the semblance of a castle from a fairy tale.  Turns out it is called Kingsbrook Historic Inn est. 1852 and is still in use.  Just magical!  From Currency Creek they turned right onto Winery Rd which winds through some vineyards and has floodways over the Finness River and Creek and billabongs.  This river flows into Clayton Bay which has a delightful little jetty where reeds grow in the water.  It is very near the mouth of the Murray which has previously run into Lake Alexandrina about 40kms to the north east and to the Corrong (a National Park for the preservation of coastal wetlands habitat) which runs down the coast to Kingston SE. Milang was only a few kilometers further round and again R & R walked the jetty to look out over Lake Alexandrina.  Here the lake’s water made a slapping sound under the jetty and had a lovely green tinge with reeds growing in little islands.  Milang is significant in that it was a bustling centre for the building of paddle steamers and other boats between 1857 and 1924, the transfer of raw materials like wheat and wool from up the Murray to places elsewhere and cream from Narrung for its butter factory. About 3:00pm, R & R followed the lake’s edge for about 8kms before heading north on Lake Plains Rd, a similar distance.  It was really busy with massive vineyards and wineries (Matala, Bleasedale, Meechi) along both sides of the road.  RL pulled into Frank Potts Reserve at Langhorne Creek to set up camper, go for a walk and prepare dinner.  It had been another lovely day, this time a little warmer and more calm … and they contemplated the fact that Easter was upon them … not only as a religious event but also for weekend holiday makers and available camping spaces.




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