Burnett Region

28/8/2018 Tuesday R & R woke and were out of bed about 6:00am.  It was supposed to be 10*C but RA knew it was a little less and the mist all around the mountains indicated that it was a cool morning.  RL read through a draft blog and picked some photos for it with his wife, even before they breakfasted at 7:00am by which time the sun was starting to come through and the mist was clearing.  R & R tidied up but the camper was still too damp to pack down and as they were in no hurry RL read while RA published the post.  At 9:30am, R & R were heading south down Bruce Highway 17kms where RL noticed a quarry in the undulating to hilly countryside with tall trees and mostly cattle farming. RL turned west inland toward Kilkivan. There was a crop of sugar cane near the Mary River but it was mostly cattle country and hilly with mountains to the south and north of the road varying between 250-450m.  They passed Brooyar State Forest and later Oakview State Forest to the south of the road.  RL stopped at Kilkivan for a cup of coffee before continuing through Goomeri to Murgon.  The main difference in this section was that perhaps it became a little steeper and the mountains a little taller to 600m. Again R & R saw irrigation, this time for cattle feed, where there was a creek and some sheep as well as a large horse property.  A sign announced South Burnett Wine Region though R & R did not see any vines.  At 11:00am, R & R walked into the information centre at Murgon and spent about an hour walking round and looking in a couple of op shops.  It was a quick trip of 13kms south to Wondai where R & R found the rest area they were considering had been closed, even if only temporarily.  They were not too stressed as they knew there should be another, a further 13kms south, at Wooroolin.  The road was mostly flat with overtaking lanes and cattle could be seen in the hillier country while irrigation for crops and orchards on the redder soils was on the flatter ground, though sometimes terraced.  By 1:00pm, R & R had found the rest area (directly over the road from the Hall dated 1899-1999) and the camper was set up for lunch and a cat nap.  Shortly before 3:00pm, R & R had a cup of coffee and left the camper for Crumpton’s farm at 35 Murphy Rd, Crawford which is just north of Kingaroy.  Why?  Because RL could not resist the urge to go there and buy a stash of peanuts!  While they were there RA asked about a crop she had seen that looked like they just cut the top off the bushes and left them to regrow.  Very unusual!  Duboisia is a bush, the leaves of which are used in medicine for dilating the eyes, and is one of the main crops grown in the area.  As they drove south to Crumpton’s, R & R noticed all manner of crops mostly peanut, beans and pulses, wheat and barley, and maize growing in deep red soil, some only just turned.  It was just like a patchwork quilt with added textural qualities.  Just beautiful to the eye!  On the way they could not help notice that near a community called Memerambi, a developer had recently built many houses mostly in variants of two designs but at least half of them were empty with cobwebs growing in the corners of doors and undressed windows.  As R & R were so close to Kingaroy, they drove the 5kms downtown to Woolworths for a couple of grocery items.  The total distance from Kingaroy to Wooroolin and the camper was 16kms so it was not long before they were back.  About 4:00pm they set off to the Wooroorlin Wetlands and its bird hide as it was so close and a lovely walking trail.  Dead trees stood starkly in the swamp, a natural phenomenon caused by flooding.  R & R sat for quite a while with their binoculars scanning the swamp and its trees for birds.  They saw many ducks and pink cockatoos but the highlight of the day was watching a family of blue wrens, and just before they were about to leave, RL spotted a wren-like bird which had red colouring on its shoulders.  Later RA looked it up. It was a red backed fairy wren.  Part of Wooroolin’s history that was getting a new lease on life, was that there used to be a railway and station. Rail, first used in 1903-4, no longer an economical way to move produce and people, had been removed and sealed as a path for cyclists and hikers.  The station itself was being renovated for what looked like a shelter.  Back at the camper about 5:30pm, RL read and RA started on her diary.  They took a break from reading and writing to prepare and eat dinner.  Together they went through their Camps book to investigate possibilities for free camping in the next couple of days.  As there was no phone reception, they were straight back into reading and writing before bed.  The day had been pleasantly warm but by evening … R & R were warmly dressed to avoid getting chilled.

29/8/2018 Wednesday R & R woke early about 5:30am and went to the toilets.  It was cold, probably about 3*C and misty so they just went back to bed to resurface about 6:45am.  They had breakfast, and showered in turns in between tidying up.  R & R packed down and were sorry to be leaving Wooroolin.  There was no reason to stay other than the rest area did not have a 20hr limit maximum stay.  At 9:15am RL headed back north up to Wondai where they stopped to take photos and pop into the op shop RA had seen the day before.  About 10:00am, R & R set off for Gayndah about 101kms north.  It was going to be a long drive so RL suggested playing their story book but its battery was dead so they put a CD in instead.  The road was flat to undulating rising to 300m with hills to 500m but not too steep.  It was dry cattle farming with green and irrigation where ever possible near creeks and rivers.  In a recently burnt nature strip, R & R saw a bush turkey and a while later RL spotted a large goanna or lizard standing erect on its front legs in the middle of the road, before it charged off. They also saw deer in a paddock that was quite denuded making it appear that deer may be as destructive as goats.  Shortly before the Welcome to North Burnett sign R &R saw prickly pear that they had not seen for a while and RA though she saw some bottle trees on an otherwise bare hill. R & R had seen that Ban Ban Springs had a driver reviver where free camping was allowed but they were truly surprised to find free coffee and sausage sizzle on a Wednesday.  The police, fire and emergency services were running a driver safety awareness campaign with information and freebies as well as refreshment.  RL opted for a sausage in bread while RA just so enjoyed a pack of mini Scotch Finger biscuits with her coffee.  RA had not had need of Scotch Finger biscuits since her father, K, had died fourteen years before.  They chatted a while and bought capsicum and zucchini from a road side vendor and took photos of the springs.  It was such a lovely spot.  There were signs about the cultural significance to aboriginal people and about the importance of maintaining and improving the habitat as there were remnants of some rare and endangered flora species in the area including bottle trees!  Reluctantly about noon RL drove off the last 28kms to Gayndah.  The country side was much as it had been until the last 5kms or so where it became quite steep and winding with more orchards.  Gayndah is the oldest town in Queensland, sits on the Oakly Creek, had many fruit vendors and a big orange.  R & R popped into the information bureau, where they saw a Queensland lungfish (Ceratodus) which is quite unique and found in freshwater in the region, before refuelling.  RL had been driving in 4th gear and testing to see if the camper pulled better and how fuel consumption would go so, it was important to fill ‘er up to test it out.  Turns out it was no better on fuel consumption so the Hum decided just to drive as he always did.  Of all the points of interest around Gayndah, RL was most interested in seeing the Iderway Upside Down Bridge.  About 7kms north, he turned east on Iderway Road and followed the signs, a couple of kilometres, first on sealed, then on unsealed road.  He pulled up and, shortly, was chatting with an ex shire president who explained the significance of the bridge.  The bridge, on a rail line no longer in use, at 45m spans the Burnett River, and like four others on the same line was built in 1902 by the same designer, though each is entirely different.  They are heritage listed.  While they were there, R & R enjoyed lunch in the shade of the trees overlooking the river.  Shortly before 2:00pm RL returned to the highway and continued north 39kms to Mundubbera.  RA had thought that the route they had taken to go back inland over the ranges was a sound choice as the mornings drive and that of the day before had not been too steep or winding even though fuel consumption was not its best.  The last section to Mundubbera was much steeper and winding with one section of 1.5kms at 8% incline.  The condition of the road itself was appalling making the Ute and camper bounce considerably.  About 2:15pm, RL parked at the Jaycee rest area 2kms south of town.  R & R unhitched the camper and drove down into Mundubbera, the name meaning “meeting place of waters”, which boasts being citrus capital of Queensland.  They walked up and down the main street and took photos of the public art.  RA particularly liked the wrap around water tower mural painted in 1997 by Rain Hart of the flora and fauna from the area featuring the meeting place of the three rivers: Burnett, Boyne and Auburn.  It begged the question about a song sung by Slim Dusty called “Three Rivers Hotel”.  Turns out that one is between Townsville and Greenvale – a lot higher up.   When they returned to the rest area about 3:30pm, they took a snap of a eucalyptus tree called the Knobbly Tree, aka, Poplar or Bimble Box.  The park also featured a black stump but don’t be fooled.  It was made of concrete!  R & R had a cup of coffee and banana before setting the camper up and settling into their usual routine of reading and writing, map searching and domestic chores.  RA tried to make enquires about the issues with the solar panels at home without much success.  RL had left a message with his sister, K, so she rang back.  Then he rang his son, J, after receiving an “Are you in reception?” message.  They chatted while RA made dinner.  R & R rang their daughter, S, since they had not spoken for a few days.  RL read and RA wrote the diary.  And RA’s treat for the day? … a packet of Scotch Finger minis, courtesy of the crew at Ban Ban Springs

30/8/2018 Thursday R & R woke about 6:30am to a cool 6*C.  They had breakfast and started to pack down but they were cool and decided to sit in the sun and read for a while to warm right through.  At 9:15am they were heading down the hill again this time for Eidsvold about 36kms north.  The road varied between flat and undulating, or hilly and bending.  R & R saw cattle and windmills in country side that looked like it had good grasses and was well treed.  They saw only one farm that had an orange orchard.  RL parked at the RM Williams Australian Bush Learning Centre well before 10:00am and they had coffee before heading in. The centre focused on the life of RM Williams who settled at “Rockybar, a cattle property west of Eidsvold.  Besides reading all the information and pressing all the interactive buttons, R & R were fortunate enough to get chatting to RM’s neighbour, who herself was quite an inspiring character.  R & R learned that: RM Williams left home at an early age and worked first with camels, he grew to know and respect aboriginal people, and always had a concern for their welfare, was a stone mason by trade, believed in being self-reliant, which lead to developing bushcraft skills with leather, wood and timber, started his boot making business in a tent before buying a factory, got a big break making saddle bags for the Kidmans, invested in mining, became very rich, opened his first store in 1970, couldn’t handle wealth, a wife and six children in the city, left most of it behind and bought “Rockybar” where eventually he married again.  He was involved in the stone work at the time the Stockman’s Hall of Fame was being constructed in Longreach.  He seems to have been much respected for his love of life, people and whatever endeavours he set his mind to.  He was quoted as saying “If you’re good enough to work for me, you’re good enough to eat at my table.”  The centre had some indigenous art and artefacts on display and a resident poet, Russell Plunkett, with whom R & R chatted for quite a while.  It was lovely to hear the poet recite a couple of his own poems; so much more powerful than just reading it.  About 11:30am R & R popped into Foodworks and bought a new set of batteries for the SPOT before heading north again 73kms to Monto.  Sections of the road were much flatter than others.  At Longley Flat near Splinters Creek there were green crops for cattle farming with Mt Tellebang at about 443m in the distance.  Other sections were steeper and winding with dry feed for cattle and horses.  Some of the land was terraced with drains to prevent soil erosion and save water.  RL passed through Mulgidie which had a general store, a hotel and a school.  Three Moon Creek ran alongside the road for the last 5kms and there, irrigation was seen the rest of the way into Monto.  RA saw a huge set of silos probably no longer in use as the railway had been removed.  At 12:40pm R & R had a coffee before walking up and down the main street, enjoying all of the public art and taking photos.  They had lunch and by 2:00pm were headed for Cania Gorge and its National Park. It was only a short drive of 12kms on the highway and another 14 through Moonford to the park itself.  The entire way the road followed closely the course of the Three Moon Creek and had irrigated sections with green crops growing.  RL noticed a turtle crossing the highway and RA hoped it would make it over before the next car.  Despite the fact that Cania Gorge park is not large, it has several walks of varying length and degree of difficulty, a lake at the northern end and was the site of the Shamrock gold mine.  All trails were well sign posted and there were many steps to make the paths safer.  R & R walked to the Gorge lookout, Dragon’s Cave where a natural black mural of a dragon appears on the white sandstone wall, Bloodwood Cave so named as the roots of a bloodwood tree can be seen at the back and along the bank of Three Moon Creek.  Along these trails they were able to enjoy views of the sandstone cliffs, different woodland environments, ferns and hoya growing on cliff faces, see a brush tailed wallaby and an emerald dove (green winged pigeon).  They could appreciate the sound of running water as they crossed the wooden bridge over the creek and hear the eastern whip bird call. They could feel the warmth in the sunlight in open woodland and the cool, in densely wooded forest where only shards of light glistened.  R & R had spent a most enjoyable couple of hours.  As RL was driving back, they spotted not one, not two, but a flock of about 22 bustards (bush turkeys). They had often seen one or two together but never that many.  Once RL was back on the highway the road was very steep with turning out lanes for slow vehicles.  RL allowed a truck to pass so that he would be able to find the turn off to the free camp site.  About 5:00pm RL turned into the Coominglah Range rest area in the Coominglah State Forest.  Within half an hour R & R had set up and were having a coffee and reading, books and maps, working on the ipad and going for a walk to check out the facilities.  After dinner they read and wrote some more.  R & R were both tired after a long day … and all that walking.

31/8/2018 Friday R & R woke to a pleasant 12*C having slept well.  After breakfast they tidied up but were in no hurry as they had arranged a Facetime with Z at 7:30am Perth time which, for them, would be 9:30am.  So, together they read a draft post and chose some photos for it.  At the appointed hour they texted Z.  He texted back to say “Sorry” as he’d had to go in to work early.  R & R packed the camper down and left it behind.  The rest area was on the top of a hill in the Coominglah Ranges and State Forest and right next to its driveway was a road to Hurdle Gully Lookout about 10kms into the forest.  RL set the Ute in 4WD as the track was single lane, unsealed and not suitable of caravans.  Named Kingston Rd, its surface varied from rocky white sandstone to deep red clay which was sometimes rutted, other times soft and sandy with RL driving less than 40km/hr and crossing two grids.  Although it was only 10 kms, it took them about half an hour to arrive at the lookout.  From the lookout R & R could look out over the Three Moon Creek valley, across the Muligildie flats and across the Burnett River catchment area with the Surat Basin to the west near Biloela.   It was not possible to see over the cliff down into to the Hurdle below which fills with water when it floods replenishing the underground aquifer.  At other times there remain, some rock pools in an otherwise dry stony water course.  The park is managed by QWPS as an important resource for the protection and study of 440 animal and 650 plant species and pockets of crows ash and bottle tree and the largest area of semi-evergreen vine thicket in the world. The Coominglah forest has no walking tracks, is well sign posted and is huge by comparison to Cania Gorge which R & R had seen the day before and intended to return to.  RL returned the way he had come and soon they were driving past the camper and heading south down Burnett Hwy 6 kms to the Cania National Park again.  This time the 6km drive was downhill with its 7% grade much easier that driving up with a camper in tow.  RL drove the same 14km road in to the park and continued another 10kms on a lovely winding route with sandstone cliffs to the left and right towards the dam and lake.  About 11:40am, near the end RL stopped at the trail that leads to what remains of the Shamrock Gold Mine.  It was only a 600m along the creek and eucalypt woodland to the site with an old battery, mine shafts, processing sheds and mullock heaps.  Gold had been found at Three Moon Creek in the 1870s and for about 50 years the population of the township of Cania fluctuated before gold mining petered out. Plans to build a dam there were approved in 1974 with construction beginning three years later.  What remained of the township now lies below water.  The five remaining headstones in the cemetery were relocated and built into a cairn on top of the dam lookout.  The size of the dam wall and the lake behind were impressive from the top and absolutely delightful from the picnic area where R & R had lunch in the shade of the trees.  It was 2:00pm when R & R set off to return to the camper.  As they were driving the phone tinged a miss call.  They stopped and returned the missed call.  Fortunately, it was a rep. for their solar system who seemed to be making progress with their issue.  By 3:00pm, R & R had picked up the camper and were on their way down the northern side of the Coominglah Range which was as steep with a 7% decline and 60km/hr suggested speeds, as the other side coming up and quite winding to boot.  H, their daughter had rung and RA was chatting but she just dropped out.  For a while the road ran high at 400m in the ranges with hills like Mt Margaret at 605m but later it opened up to dry cattle farming with tall trees and good grasses and the mountains further away. It was 3:40pm when R & R arrived at Lawgi Hall rest area where they rang their daughter back and chatted a while before setting up the camper.  Luckily, there was a free shower so they had one before settling in for the evening.  RL read and RA published the post.  Their son, S rang them and they chatted a while before dinner.  S, their daughter rang so RA did not get her diary done.  It was quite pleasantly warm … with an overnight low of 13*C forecast.