Dry Tropics 2

22/8/2018 Wednesday R & R slept relatively well because they were prepared for the cold.  It must have been as low as 3*C as RA’s nose indicated, but the weather app. indicated it was 7*C, feels like 5*C.  Out of bed at 7:00am, they breakfasted before tidying up and packing down.  As often happens, RL got chatting with other travellers so it was after 9:00am before R & R were on the road.  RL headed south on Bruce Highway for Yaamba rest area about 140kms away.  The road was flat, at about 30m above sea level, with hills up to 200m in the distance but sometimes they were closer.  There had been control burning on both sides of the road for quite a while.  It was cattle farming country, with some patches of land looking more denuded than others and there appeared to be some, where regeneration was being encouraged.  As the stretches of road between the bigger coastal towns were so far and the roads particularly rough and bouncy, there were signs warning of fatigue and the trivia question “What is Queensland’s highest mountain?” which was aimed at keeping drivers alert.  R & R knew that one.  About 10:00am, RL turned off the highway one kilometre into Marlborough but there was no reason for them to stop so they just came back out to the highway and continued south.  RL actually passed his first caravan for the entire trip as it was going so slow.  Up to this point he had found them all to be moving at a good speed.  Near Magpie Gully there was control burning along the road verge and further off in the hills there was quite a lot of smoke which RA hoped was also ‘controlled’.  Though some hills like Mt Bonnie Doon rose to 290m, the road was generally flat.  R & R drove between Shoalwater Army Training Reserve to the coastal side of the road and Lake Learmouth State Forrest to the west with the rail line crossing back and forth.  About 11:00am they arrived at the Yaamba rest area and set up the camper.  It was a warm 24*C so they prepared a rock melon, had some for a snack, had coffee and agreed on an early lunch and cat nap.  After that they chatted with a fellow camper before heading out for an afternoon drive at 1:45pm.  RL planned to drive south toward Rockhampton, then turn toward the coast to Yeppoon and then south along the coast to Emu Park and back again, a total of about 70kms.  About 12kms south of Yaamba a sign indicated “The Caves” and the Navigator confirmed that it was Mt Etna at 284m, the Mt Etna National Park, a Mt Etna Mine and indicated that the caves were only about 5kms or so off the highway.  R & R thought that they might go there the next day. R & R passed a correctional facility, research station and beef breeders sign before seeing the Rockhampton welcome sign which read Beef Capital of Australia.  RL did not have to drive all the way into Rockhampton but they were already in the industrial areas with a big Kenworth dealership and another yard full of earth moving equipment.  RL noted a quarry just before the turn off at Parkhurst to Yeppoon and immediately after RA saw another called Peak Hill to the south near Mt Archer 604m and its National Park.  About a third of the drive to Yeppoon was double lane dual carriageway, where the road was quite winding and hilly before it flattened and opened with small farmlets all along the way.  There were cattle and horses and a thoroughbred stud.  Most eye catching, though, were the volcanic plugs.  In the relatively flat landscape, these hills, like Pine Mountain at 237m, stood like sentinels, conical in shape and quite steep. About 5kms from Yeppoon, R & R saw “The Pines” industrial estate where the areas dwindling pineapple crop is handled.  About 2:30pm R & R were at the information centre making enquiries.  They went to the beach front and enjoyed photographing the Spirit Stone, the portholes and the Keppel Kraken water playground which was quite different from anything they had seen elsewhere.  They also admired the unique beach front seats which, though out in the open, had a stand in which to place a beach umbrella.  RL then drove about 6km north to Laceys Road to a fruit vendor hoping to buy fresh pineapple but there were only sad bananas.  Heading back along the beachfront and out past the information centre RL drove, over Ross Creek, south to Emu Park a distance of 19km.  The Capricorn Coast Tourist route was a delightful drive sometimes along the water line and at others through thick coastal bush but mostly at 60km/hr speed limit so there was time to enjoy it.  RL passed over a causeway which had a big lake.  At Emu Park, R & R were impressed with the Anzac Memorial which was probably second to nothing they had yet seen anywhere.  There was a magnificent 175m timber board walk over the edge of the hills looking down to the shore line and out over the sea to the Keppel Islands incorporated into the memorial, displaying information about different war campaigns, and link it to the Singing Ship.  The ship is a memorial to Captain Cook and his exploration along the coast.  RL could hear the musical tones made by the gentle breezes as they blew over the flute like pipes of different lengths and thicknesses.  R & R agreed to take the same route back rather than go a different way to return to the camper.  On the way back, the road was extremely busy heading to the coast.  It being just on 5:00pm, R & R figured that a lot of people must drive to and from work in Rockhampton to live in Yeppoon, and why not, it was such a lovely place.  As RL was held up at the lights on the corner of Bruce Highway two fire engines raced by heading for burns in the hills behind Mt Archer.  It was just before 6:00pm when R & R returned to the camper to find that someone had parked in front of it without leaving room for the Ute.  RL just parked it in a safe place and would worry about it in the morning.  Together they prepared dinner and began to read and write.  S, their daughter rang and told them all about her day.  R & R were happy for her … that she had a happy day.

23/8/2018 Thursday R & R were awake at 6:00am and went to the toilet.  It was still a little dark but the atmosphere was a smoky haze.  They went back to bed as it was just too early to get going.  Next, they woke at 7:15am to a slightly warmer 6*C and 96% humidity.  RA finished her diary from the evening before while RL read and chatted with the camper next door.  They were in no hurry as the young couple in front of them were not ready to leave.  When R & R finally left after 9:30am, they realized that it must have been the first time that they had been first to arrive and last to leave at a rest area.  As they drove away, RA noticed a sign boasting that the Yaamba pub had been serving the public for over 150 years.  Pretty impressive!  It was only about fifteen minutes and 12kms down the road when R & R were parked at the picnic area in the Mt Etna Caves National Park.  They had a cup and chatted with the ranger before walking the 600m Cammoo circuit.  The trail wanders through remnant dry rainforest clinging to the limestone karst.  The caves were formed from an ancient coral reef about 400 million years ago.  The area is home to some rare and endangered bats but guided tours of the national park bat caves are only available during breeding season from November to February so R & R did not go in any caves.  Limestone mining is prevalent in the area and limestone was mined at Mt Etna until it was agreed that the value of preserving the bat community was greater than the extraction of limestone.  The walk only took about half an hour reading all the panels along the way and R & R were aware of a lovely sweetness in the air and wondered if it emanated from the flora that the bats lived on.  RA set the Navigator for Kershaw Gardens in Rockhampton as they had seen a waterfall in one of the brochures.  Arriving at 11:15am, they were fortunate enough to get a car park in an RV area and they spent the best part of an hour walking round the gardens, sitting at the water playground and finding the waterfall.  RL decided to go to the information centre so RA set the Navigator, refuelling as they went, and by 12:15pm, they were at the Tropic of Capricorn Spire monument.  It was a great photo opportunity.  They discovered that there are no less than 7 official cattle monuments and they had already seen a couple on the way and hoped to get a photo of at least a couple.  First, they headed downtown to Quay Street on the Fitzroy River where they had been told there was lots of room for parking and had lunch at 1:00pm.  They took a leisurely stroll along the river frontage and admired all the lovely old buildings.  One of the unofficial bulls stands on top of the Brahman House a beautiful structure with the inscription A 1888 D on its façade.  R & R returned to the Ute via East Street with all its café and chic shops.  On their way out of Rockhampton they spotted a couple of bulls and couldn’t resist stopping.  So, it was after 2:30pm when RL headed south towards Gladstone.  The first 30kms was road works.  It was flat open cattle farming countryside, though RA did see one flock of sheep, with grasses and was more or less wooded.  Near Bajoo there was a sign warning to reduce speed as turning truck might be carrying explosive to and from the explosives bunkers which were obvious behind security fencing.  The rail ran along with the road and RL noticed that they had electric lines above them.  They saw four trains, two of which were carrying coal.  At Mt Larcom rather than diverting to Gladstone, RL veered with the Bruce Highway towards Calliope 27kms away as they had intended to sleep there.  The road became quite hilly and more densely wooded towards Calliope.  RL spotted a delightful blue-faced honeyeater.  When they arrived at the rest area the toilet block had been cordoned off so they decided to head to the next possible rest area only another 20kms further south.  After crossing the Calliope River, which was big with lots of water and black rocks in it, the road was consistently steeper and more wooded.  At 4:20pm RL parked the Ute and camper at Boyne River free camp site and they had a cup and biscuit before even getting out to set up.  Originally, in the 1880s, the scenic valley around the Boyne River was focused on gold and copper mining but these days it supported cattle farming and timber.  Once they had set up, they took turns to have a shower.  Before dinner they read maps and looked up Mass times for the weekend to draw up a general plan for the following days.  RA cooked dinner while RL read.  After dinner they read and wrote.  Outside in the dark … gold from the street lights shimmered on the river’s surface.

24/8/2018 Friday R & R woke to a much more pleasant 14*C at 6:45am and were not aware of the high humidity at 81%.  They breakfasted and packed down at a leisurely pace and were on the road at 8:40am.  RL headed south on Bruce Highway to Miriam Vale about 45kms.  The road was good and the farming land, supporting cattle was flat to undulating with relatively good grasses and well wooded. Within half an hour RL headed towards the coast from Miriam Vale about 26 kms along Fingerboard Road toward Agnes Water and 1770.  Seventeen Seventy is named after the year that Captain James Cook first stepped ashore off the Endeavour and it is the only town in the world that has a number name.  The road was not as good and it became more hilly, and winding. Fortunately, the road came to an end with the choice to turn northward to the coastal towns or southward to Bundaberg.  RL headed north on Round Hill Road which was a much better road for the last 30kms to the sea.  About 9:45am, R & R went into the Agnes Water information centre and sought advice, around which they planned their day.  It was already 21*C.  First, they walked the 400m Paperbark Forest Walk at Reedy creek Reserve on Springs Road.  It was a delightful walk with boards, and bollards (like stepping stones) as well as earthen path.  RA had wondered why the sign stated that it was not suitable of anyone with balance issues!  To add to that novelty factor, the paperbark forest was most unusual; R & R had not seen anything like it before.  And as a bonus, there were lots of one particular butterfly which was speckled brown and black with a wide white band on the edge of its wings.  R & R savoured the moment by having a cup and snack and ringing RA’s brother C. On the way back, they took Bicentennial Drive and looked into the only op shop in the area, before heading 6kms up the coast on Captain Cook Drive to 1770 itself.  RL drove up to the Anchor Lookout and they walked to the Headland Lookout.  The anchor was from a ship called the Countess Russell.  The views from all the lookouts and vantage points were attractive with the brilliant aqua blue water, white waves crashing on rocks and tropical coastal vegetation.  At 12:30am, they had an early lunch so that they were fortified to walk down the hill to the Cook Monument about 1.5kms and then return along the coastal track back to the headland a similar distance.  There again, they saw many of the same butterfly. On their way back to Agnes Water, they stopped off at the 1770 Marina for a few more photos.  Back at the information centre, R & R had a coffee and rang their daughter, H.  R & R enjoyed the Museum with its focus being on Cook, Banks, shipwrecks, the lighthouse and shells.  Turns out the Countess Russell was one of many ships wrecked along the coast and there is the story of another, the Agnes, which in 1873 with 12 passengers on board, disappeared without a trace never to be seen again.  Another mystery is how the lighthouse seemed to have been plagued with misfortune: murder, still birth, drowning, suicide?  Add to that other exhibits like an excellent collection of indigenous artefacts and it was a most enjoyable excursion.  As it was getting later in the day, R & R wasted no time in quickly walking the 1km trail behind the museum to the lookout over Agnes and Workmans Beaches.  At 3:30pm RL headed away from the coast, back the way he had driven but instead of turning towards Miriam Vale, he continued south along Tablelands Road towards Bundaberg.  RA noticed that they had seen many kookaburras but always as singles, sitting solemnly on telephone wires.  The road became quite hilly, though not steep rising and falling between 50-100m with small hills like Mt Maria rising to 338m toward the coast.  The rail ran alongside the road and switched over at one point.  Taller trees and more densely woods heralded the Littabella National Park which was on both sides of the road for a while.  About 4:30pm, RL was stopped by fire crews as they had closed the road because visibility was dangerously low.  He was told it could be as long as an hour but it was too far and late to turn back so they waited along with everyone else.  Eventually, only 45 minutes later, the fire personal were escorting groups of vehicles through the danger zone.  RL was told to close all windows and run recycled air con only.  It seemed that the danger was not so much visibility as smoke inhalation.  The burn zone was about 1.5 to 2km and the line of cars waiting at the other end was at least a kilometre long.  Having not seen sugar cane for a couple of days, RA was quite surprised to see more, being irrigated either by flooding or overhead sprinklers, about 25kms north of Bundaberg near the Kolan River which had black swans on it.  There were also orchards and then vegetables.  At Oakwood, just short of Bundaberg, RL turned east toward Gin Gin for about 7kms to Sharon and its Sharon Gorge picnic and rest area.  It was 6:00pm as R & R set up the camper only to find that the beetroot container had spilled inside the fridge and leaked over the floor.  There was nothing for it, but to clean it up before thinking about coffee or dinner.  S, their son rang and chatted a while.  RL looked at possible camping spots for the next night while RA cooked dinner.  After dinner they read and wrote a while before quitting.  It had certainly been and interesting day … butterflies, paperbarks, bollard stepping stones, shipwrecks, mystery and smoke!

25/8/2018 Saturday R & R woke a little early at 6:00am to a pleasant 12*C with 94% humidity and rather than get back into bed RA finally finished the diary entry for Tuesday which was never quite completed while RL read.  Shortly after 8:00am R & R took the 900m trail along Sharon Gorge to the Burnett River.  The area was sanctuary for a healthy stand of a vulnerable plant called the Wegde-Leaf Tuckeroo which has a leaf much like a holly.  R & R heard many birds calling including the whip like sound of the Eastern Whipbird and the machine gun like call of the Lewin Honeyeater but did not see them.  Before heading 13kms into the Bundaberg CBD to the information centre, RA booked a spot at a caravan park in Burrum Heads just north of Hervey Bay so that they would be able to attend a 5:00pm Mass there.  Under instruction R & R parked just back from the main street and spent the best part of a couple of hours walking the streets and taking in the op shops and Open House offerings.  Bundaberg had several of its heritage building open to the public.  For example, the School of Arts building was unmistakable as its magnificent façade is boldly painted pink.  It was built in 1888 and is the oldest remaining building in Bundaberg.  R & R enjoyed its beauty inside with its brass light switches and every door having a panel of wrought iron above it.  They were able to climb the spiral staircase and look out over the city from the upstairs balconies.  Directly across was the grand old post office building with an impressive clock tower, dome and spire.  R & R noticed the scrolls of burnt cane leaf on the streets which indicated that cane burning before harvest was practiced in the area.  When they returned to the Ute RL rang his brother, S, while having coffee and fruit.  Determined to see a few of Bundaberg’s special features, RL drove out to the Bundaberg Rum Distillery and saw the cane and chimneys at full steam, the Transwood Cooperage where wooden barrels are made, the Bundaberg Barrel where they tasted Ginger beers and other flavoured fruit drinks and the Hummock which though only 96m above sea level displayed a breathtaking 360% vista over the coastline, back to the city and down onto the agricultural endeavours below.  Interestingly the Hummock is the remains of a small basaltic volcano, was first named by Matthew Flinders in 1799 and was acquired and developed by RACQ specifically for the enjoyment of the public.  At the top there was also a monument to Bert Hinkler the sole aviator.  It was 2:00pm before R & R got back to the camper and had late lunch before hitching and leaving within the 20 hour designated free camping period.  About 2:45pm, RL headed back over the big double bridge with an island in the middle of the Burnett River and through the Bundaberg CBD to Apple Tree Creek and its rest area 45 kms south west.  The country side was flat to undulating running between 50-90m above sea level.  There was cattle farming and cane growing where feasible and other places were either forested or swampy areas.  RL drove through the Elliott River State Forest with its fire tower and delightfully intoxicating smell of pine.  Just before R & R arrived at Apple Tree Creek, they noticed the Isis Sugar Mill and many orchards growing in the rich red soil.  About 3:15pm, G, RL’s brother rang so RA chatted with him until RL had navigated his way into the rest area.  RL chatted with him quite a while before R & R set the camper up at 4:15pm. They took a walk around the park to orientate themselves.  It was a delightful setting, nestled in the valley of some hills, with the Flying High Bird Sanctuary over the highway and a band rotunda next to the rodeo grounds.  R & R read for a while before RL rang his brother, J.  After dinner, R & R spoke first with one daughter and then with the other.  It was late and both RL and RA were tired … so they quit.

26/8/2018 Sunday R & R slept relatively well though they were disturbed by a little light rain in the early hours of the morning.  They got out of bed at 6:45am to a pleasant 15*C and very high humidity. Just on 8:30am, they were packed and heading for Childers, 7km south on the Bruce Highway.  There was a lovely fresh smell in the air and the soil was a deep red from the overnight dampness.  It only took about ten minutes before the Ute was parked in the main street in Childers and R & R piled out to look for the public art.  There were so many delightful examples of mosaic, cut iron, aluminium models, statues and sculptures on the pavement under beautiful old buildings that they had even created a glossy brochure which includes them all and a description about the work.  R & R were clicking wildly.  It began to rain heavily as RL drove out of Childers bound for Howard 30kms south on Bruce Highway and then another 20kms east to the coast to Burrum Heads caravan park.  It rained so heavily that RA was hard pushed to see anything to comment on.  There were sheep as well as cattle and after an initial hilly section leaving Childers, where the road rose and fell between 50 and 120m, the road was flat.  There were many sections with overtaking lanes.  RL bypassed Howard with the navigator leading the way east to Burrum Heads.  As it was still too early to check into the caravan park, RL stopped on the side of the road and they had a cup of coffee.  The Burrum River Road followed closely the course of the Burrum River and RA noticed that the driveways did not have houses along the road but rather further back against the river bank.  The road was flat unlike most of the coastal drives which are more undulating or even hilly as they go through coastal hills.  Just before the township, the road passed through a small flat sandy coastal reserve called Burrum Coast National Park.  Fortunately, when R & R arrived at the caravan park the rain had ceased and they were able to set up as well as get a quick chat with a neighbour in before it rained heavily again.  R & R had a coffee and fruit and read newspaper and maps for a while.  When it cleared again, about noon, they went for a walk around the park and downtown to check on Mass time, back along the beach front and up the stairs into the back of the van park.  As they walked there was lightning in a very dark sky so it was just as well they were so close.  It poured again heavily while R & R had lunch and a cat nap.  About 2:00pm, R & R gave each other a haircut before heading for the showers.  RA put the washing in the machine while RL chatted with a guy who had a tray back slide on camper.  RA joined them.  As there was no chance of getting the washing dry naturally, R & R popped it into the drier.  They read for a while before fetching and folding the clothes.  RA cooked dinner and they had a quick chat with their daughter, S, so that RA could catch up on her diary.  Turns out that somehow R & R were mistaken about Mass times … it is not often that they mess up like that.

27/8/2018 Monday R & R woke to a lovely clear sunny morning at 6:45am.  After breakfast and showers, RL filled the tanks with water while RA sent off an email regarding the solar system at home and wrote a couple of birthday cards for the post.  Other than the ground and the flies being damp, one would never have known that it rained heavily most of the day before.  There was 88% humidity and it was already 19*C with a promise of 24*C so it was little surprise that they were getting sweaty rolling up the flies just before leaving at 9:30am.  RL headed along a lovely flat coastal road between Burrum Heads and Hervey Bay.  Coastal scrub on white sand lined the road which was probably not more than 1-2kms from the sea.  There were lots of houses and little settlements along the way.  Shortly before 10:00am, R & R were in Pialba at Palomino RV to look at the slide on camper offerings.  They chatted with the salesman and asked lots of questions about inclusions and exclusions, different sizes and their suitability to different vehicles, prices etc, climbed in and sat in a couple and tried to imagine what it might be like to travel and live in one.  An hour later, they retired to the Ute for a cup of coffee before heading to the nearest Stockland shopping centre.  There they popped into a couple of op shops, spoke with their daughter, H, extended their mail redirection for another 3 months and went food shopping at Coles.  It was 1:30pm by the time R & R returned to the Ute and ate lunch before heading out.  About 2:00pm RL set off for Maryborough 37kms to the south.  RA was looking at maps when RL said “It’s a nice road! Isn’t it?”  It was indeed.  Smooth and even and flat and double lanes both ways.  As if jinxed, it became single lane but there were quite a few overtaking lanes to make up for it.  At this point RA noticed coastal swamp and the Navigator indicated that it was only 4m above sea level but shortly after it became more undulating at about 30m.  R & R saw cattle and noticed the Susan River Adventure Resort which features horses and horse riding.  There was more sugar cane growing and some vines could be seen.  R & R were not able to see much of Maryborough as they only needed to stop for fuel and were focused on navigating straight through the middle from top to bottom over Mary River and towards the Bruce Highway.  There appeared to be a traffic jam for vehicles heading north off Bruce Highway and into Maryborough as it was backed up for several kilometres.  Not so going south, which was lucky for R & R.  They stopped to refuel shortly after.  R & R were planning on sleeping about 50kms south at a rest area called Gunalda.   On the road again at 3:00pm, RA noticed Glenorchy Springs Equine Lodge and sugar cane growing. “Where? Where?” RL exclaimed when he saw a sign with pineapples for sale.  RA had also seen the sign and in about 7kms they were parked at Pineapple Hill, a road side sales point for pineapple and other fruit and vegetables.  There, on the hill of deep red soil, acres of pineapple grew and the scent was unmistakable.  There, the signs on both the shed and house gates read CLOSED!  It would have been hard to work out who was more disappointed.  A few minutes later, RL spotted another vendor in a truck bay at Tiaro.  Three pineapples for $5. While paying the vendor commented on her slow day’s sales on account of a road fatality.  That explained the traffic jam heading into Maryborough.  What was undulating at about 30-50m became steeper with hills to the east and west of the road, Penny Mountain 239m, Mt Bauple 496m and Grassy Mountain 269m.  There was also forested vegetation with Bauple National Park and State Forests nearby.  The road was built up to accommodate the hills and signs warned of rock fall where cuts had been created.  Again R & R were distracted by trivia questions:  What is a monotreme? A Mammal that lays eggs.  What made Gympie Famous?  The discovery of gold in 1867.  What is the coldest town in Qld?  Stanthorpe.  Well – R & R didn’t know any of those answers!  Just before 4:00pm, R & R pulled into the rest area at Gunalda.  There on the top of the hill just to the east off Bruce Highway on the top of a hill, surrounded by the many hills of the Gunalda Range was a very pretty camp site, even if it was almost impossible to find a flat/level spot to set up the camper.  R & R had coffee in the Ute before even setting up and then RA put away the shopping and worked on her ipad before they walked around to check out the conditions of stay and the facilities.  Before dinner R & R looked through the maps and investigated options for where they might stay next.  RL helped RA prepare dinner and, after, they read and wrote as is their habit.  It had been a really busy day but RA felt quite calm … they had investigated the slide on that RL so much wanted to look at.